How to lower your GUC cooling bill

Thermostat and fan

GUC's warm-weather advice is to set the thermostat as high as you can while staying comfortable, suggesting 76 to 78 degrees, to leave the fan on automatic rather than continuous, and to raise the setting when you are away if you have a programmable thermostat. The Department of Energy's Energy Saver guide says the same and adds that a ceiling fan lets you raise the thermostat about 4°F without losing comfort.

The fan setting matters more here than in a dry climate. With the fan on continuously, water that collected on the indoor coil can blow back into the house between cycles, and a damp house feels warmer, so you turn the thermostat down. When the house feels sticky.

Filter and coil

ENERGY STAR says to inspect, clean or change the air filter once a month in a central air conditioner or heat pump. A dirty filter makes the system run longer for the same cooling and can freeze the coil. Keep the outdoor unit clear of shrubs and grass clippings, and have it checked once a year. Tune-ups.

The free GUC energy audit

GUC offers free energy audits for homes. Its page says an energy specialist looks at insulation and air sealing as well as the heating and cooling system and the ducts. GUC's energy specialists also give free advice on equipment sizing for replacements and remodels. To schedule, call the Energy Services Office at 252-551-1521.

From guc.com, accessed October 29, 2026. Programs change; check with GUC before you rely on one.

Winter counts too

In a heat pump house the biggest bills can come in January, not July. GUC's cold-weather advice is to keep the thermostat as low as comfortable, saying each degree lower can save 3% to 5%, and to keep the fan on auto. If "aux heat" or "emergency heat" stays lit on the thermostat for hours on a mild day, the heat pump may not be heating at all, and the backup strips are carrying the house. Heat pump repair.

When the bill is a sign of a problem

A bill that jumps without a hot spell to explain it can mean a failing part or leaking ducts in the crawlspace or attic. On a system past 12 to 15 years, a new one at or above the 14.3 SEER2 minimum may cost less to run. Repair or replace.